The Somme region of France was one of the most deadly places in France during World War I. Almost every week, farmers in the Somme turn up what they term "the iron harvest." Pieces of bullets, grenades, mortars. And about a dozen times a year they pull up a body of some unidentified soldier, lying long dead in a collapsed trench or unmarked grave.

Hotel Granvía

Gran Via 642, 08007 Barcelona, Spain

53 rooms. Singles: €95; Doubles: €150. Visa/MC accepted.

From the US

Tel: 933-181-900

Fax: 933-189-997

E-mail: hgranvia@nnhotels.com

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Report Card

The Hotel: A+

Housed in a historic family townhouse from the late 1800’s, the Granvía has been a hotel since 1935. The rather modest reception area gives no hint of what’s upstairs. Several grand parlors provide the perfect setting for a pre-dinner drink (BYOB) or to sit and read.

The Location: B

Just off the Plaça Catalunya, it’s extremely convenient for exploring the Eixample, Gothic Quarter and Las Ramblas. It loses points for street noise, a real problem on rooms facing the main road.

The Rooms: A/B/C (Ambiance/Cleanliness/Maintenance)

The rooms are modern, while retaining the feel of an old world, elegant hotel. Some of the rooms retain the look of a wealthy townhouse bedroom, while others are more business modern, with lots of dark wood and brass. I have noticed slight problems with maintenance in some rooms.

The Staff: C

Staff is variable, from wonderful to, ummm, well indifferent.