Sinkhole appears in front of Rome's Pantheon


A six-foot deep sinkhole opened up in front of the Pantheon in Rome, revealing ancient paving below the modern level. The ancient Travertine blocks were part of the original paving, put in place when the Pantheon was constructed in 27 BC.

If you stand at the back of the square in front of the Pantheon you'll notice that the whole square slopes towards the Pantheon. Over the centuries the level of Rome has risen. New buildings were built on top of older structures. Streets were repaired and improved by building on top of older streets. The slope is evidence of this rise, leading from the modern level at the rear of the square down to the ancient level near the entry to the Pantheon.

Rome was littered with temples, each dedicated to a specific god. Within a block or so of this spot were temples dedicated to Minerva, Serapis, and Isis (the Egyptian goddess, not the current maniacs in the Middle East). You could go to a specific temple and appeal to your chosen god for help in whatever area of life you were having problems. Love life sagging? Go to the temple of Venus. Having problems with your studies? Go talk to Minerva. Headed to war, or thankful for returning safely from battle? Mars is your man.
If you had lots of problems, and didn’t have time to visit all those different temples, you could come here – a temple dedicated to all (pan) the gods (theos). It was like the Walmart of temples. One stop shopping. Whatever ailed you, the Pantheon could fix it.
The Pantheon is absolutely the best preserved monument of ancient Rome. When buildings are abandoned, they tend to fall apart very quickly. Just drive by a house that has been foreclosed and sits empty for a while. The Pantheon is so well-preserved because it was never abandoned – it’s been in constant use since it was built in 27 BC.
The building was originally constructed by Marcus Agrippa, who was the best friend, son-in-law, and right-hand man of Augustus, Rome’s first emperor. The building was destroyed by lightning (was that a sign?), but rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian in about 120 AD. In a remarkable display of humility for a Roman Emperor, Hadrian left Marcus Agrippa’s name on the front. Hmmm, maybe he was worried about more lightning strikes? Anyway, the inscription across the top reads M. Agrippa L.F. Cos. tertium fecit, which means Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, consul for the third time, made this. At least that’s what I’ve been told. My Latin isn’t great.
In the 4th century the building was consecrated as a church, dedicated to all the Christian martyrs, and it has been in use ever since.
When barbarian invaders sacked and burned Rome in 410 AD, they stole the church treasures, but they left the building intact. Strip away the bits of Christianity that have been tacked on (especially inside) and we are looking at the same thing that every visitor to Rome has seen for almost 1900 years, from Constantine to Charlemagne to Michelangelo to you.


Sinkhole appears in front of Rome's Pantheon


A six-foot deep sinkhole opened up in front of the Pantheon in Rome, revealing ancient paving below the modern level. The ancient Travertine blocks were part of the original paving, put in place when the Pantheon was constructed in 27 BC.

If you stand at the back of the square in front of the Pantheon you'll notice that the whole square slopes towards the Pantheon. Over the centuries the level of Rome has risen. New buildings were built on top of older structures. Streets were repaired and improved by building on top of older streets. The slope is evidence of this rise, leading from the modern level at the rear of the square down to the ancient level near the entry to the Pantheon.

Rome was littered with temples, each dedicated to a specific god. Within a block or so of this spot were temples dedicated to Minerva, Serapis, and Isis (the Egyptian goddess, not the current maniacs in the Middle East). You could go to a specific temple and appeal to your chosen god for help in whatever area of life you were having problems. Love life sagging? Go to the temple of Venus. Having problems with your studies? Go talk to Minerva. Headed to war, or thankful for returning safely from battle? Mars is your man.
If you had lots of problems, and didn’t have time to visit all those different temples, you could come here – a temple dedicated to all (pan) the gods (theos). It was like the Walmart of temples. One stop shopping. Whatever ailed you, the Pantheon could fix it.
The Pantheon is absolutely the best preserved monument of ancient Rome. When buildings are abandoned, they tend to fall apart very quickly. Just drive by a house that has been foreclosed and sits empty for a while. The Pantheon is so well-preserved because it was never abandoned – it’s been in constant use since it was built in 27 BC.
The building was originally constructed by Marcus Agrippa, who was the best friend, son-in-law, and right-hand man of Augustus, Rome’s first emperor. The building was destroyed by lightning (was that a sign?), but rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian in about 120 AD. In a remarkable display of humility for a Roman Emperor, Hadrian left Marcus Agrippa’s name on the front. Hmmm, maybe he was worried about more lightning strikes? Anyway, the inscription across the top reads M. Agrippa L.F. Cos. tertium fecit, which means Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, consul for the third time, made this. At least that’s what I’ve been told. My Latin isn’t great.
In the 4th century the building was consecrated as a church, dedicated to all the Christian martyrs, and it has been in use ever since.
When barbarian invaders sacked and burned Rome in 410 AD, they stole the church treasures, but they left the building intact. Strip away the bits of Christianity that have been tacked on (especially inside) and we are looking at the same thing that every visitor to Rome has seen for almost 1900 years, from Constantine to Charlemagne to Michelangelo to you.


Leonardo exhibit in Rome


The Scuderie del Quirinale museum in Rome is honoring Leonardo da Vinci on the 500th anniversary of his death with a special exhibition. Running through the end of June, the exhibit La Scienza prima della scienza (science before science) features pieces focusing on da Vinci's technical and mechanical genius in everything from agriculture to flight to war machines.

More ruins to visit in Rome


One of my favorite off-the-radar sites in Rome, Largo di Torre Argentina, will open to the public in 2021. Right now you can only view the ruins from the street above, but thanks to funding provided by fashion company Bulgari the ground level of the site will soon be accessible.

I love taking my tour groups past this site which, to the casual tourist, just looks like a big hole in the ground with some broken bits of stone. There are tons of these in Rome, but there are two things that make Largo Argentina special: it's home to some of the oldest ruins in Rome, with four temples dating to around 200 BC; and it's adjacent to the ruins of the portico of the Theater of Pompey – the place where Julius Caesar was assassinated. If you stand in the right spot, near the tram stop, you are actually standing on top of the site where Julius Caesar was stabbed to death by a group of Roman senators.



OK, there is a third reason I like bringing groups here. This is also where you can get a look at an ancient Roman toilet – the flat stone with the keyhole cut-out at the top of the picture is a section of the seats, which used to sit over the deep trench below. Keep in mind that this whole thing was in an enclosed building. A large volume of water would have been flowing through the deep trench, above which there was a long bench with fifty or so keyhole-shaped cutouts. Sitting cheek to cheek, there was no privacy inside.

The clientele would sit facing towards the left of the picture, with their feet on the wide shelf of the carved stone you can see running next to the trench. Clean water was flowing through the little gutter in front of that. When you entered the building a toilet slave handed each person a stick with a sponge on the end. When you were finished with your business, you dipped the sponge into the clean water and used the sponge to clean yourself. Just hope that you weren’t down stream from a double-dipper.
We’re actually only looking at half of the facilities. There was an identical set on the opposite side, now under the road that we’re standing on. Think about that during intermission the next time you’re at the theater. What would you give for a bathroom that had 100 seats?

Church and state fight over Trevi coins


Tradition says that a coin tossed into the Trevi Fountain will guarantee your return to Rome. It seems to work for me, as I faithfully toss a coin in each and every time I visit.

Tossing coins in the fountain is extremely popular – in fact so many tourists gather around the fountain at all hours of day and night, that there have even been fights over the best location to stand. Each year the City of Rome collects more than $1.7 million worth of coins from the fountain.

Well, now the city government is in a dispute over what happens to all that money. In the past the money has been donated to Caritas, which provides aid to the poor around the world. The Rome city council recently decided to grab the money for itself, supposedly to be used to repair the city's crumbling infrastructure. Given the history of Rome's finances – and government use of money in general – this sounds like a lose-lose proposition.

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